The Red Lion, Hunningham, Warwickshire

16.06.09

The son of a local vicar, Sam Cornwall-Jones spent 12 years running pubs for a large pub company, but it’s his quirky, eccentric style that people warm to at The Red Lion, which is a short drive from Leamington Spa and close to both the M40 and the M1.

Ask Cornwall-Jones for directions to his pub and he admits that even sat-navs get confused. From the M40, he recommends: “Off at junction 10…take fourth exit onto A46 signposted Coventry…after 10mins come off at Kenilworth roundabout and turn right signposted Leamington A452…left at next roundabout, straight over next two roundabouts…wave to mum’s house…turn left at top of road (mini-roundabout) in Cubbington…carry on until Weston-under-Wetherley, then right into Hunningham…over bridge can’t miss pub unless it‘s flooded!”

And he’s not joking. The 150 sandbags in the car park behind The Red Lion are a gentle reminder that this 17th century pub has been badly flooded twice in the past decade.

The most recent was just before Sam Cornwall-Jones bought the pub last September and the pub was so badly damaged that it underwent a total refurbishment.

Not that flooding here should come as a real surprise – the pub is adjacent to a 14th century bridge crossing the River Leam which passes the bottom of the garden.

Before he ran pubs, Cornwall-Jones wanted to be a comic book artist and his passion for comics forms the focal point of the pub, every wall of which is plastered with framed, vintage copies of Fantastic Four, Batman, X-Factor, Supergirl and Wolverine.

It certainly makes for a refreshing change from the usual hunting pictures hanging in many country pubs.

The food, which is served all day, is honest and unfussy, with most of the produce sourced locally.

A starter of salmon and smoked trout fishcake with horseradish mayonnaise could be followed by a Warwickshire fillet steak served with Shropshire Blue butter and hand-cut chips.

There is also a selection of crisps (or ‘snackerels’) – although the board advertising them warns that “some flavours are made up”.

Whilst the mature Cheddar and chive sounds real enough, the ‘pollock and turbot’ flavoured crisps looks suspiciously like Cornwall-Jones’ waspish humour again.

It may be difficult to find, but The Red Lion is certainly a pub that makes you leave with a smile on your face.

ON THE MENU: Goats cheese and spinach pancake with orange and rocket salad, £5.50; braised half shoulder of Warwickshire mutton served with roasted carrots and creamed spinach, £15.95; apple and blueberry hazelnut crumble with custard, £5.25

The Red Lion, Main Street, Hunningham, Leamington Spa, Warwickshire, 01926 632715